Thursday 1 March 2012

Hampi (Vijayanagara) - The forgotton empire(Day 2)

The second day at Hampi started well, with Ganesh picking us at the Hotel at around 9.00 a.m. We had breakfast at a small hotel near the Kamalapuram Bus stand. The quality of the food was fine, the taste - ok, the price- reasonable. We bought water bottles there at MRP( they were sold at a premium in the Mayura Bhuvaneshwari Hotel). From there, we headed to the Vitthala temple. Vittala is a form of Lord Vishnu, and there  is a cult worship of Vishnu in this form. This temple was originally built in 15th century and later additions and enhancements were made.

Since this temple lies, not on the main roads of Hampi, and is sort of tucked away, one can ensure some peace and quiet here, as opposed to the other attrations in Hampi. We took a shuttle to reach the temple. Th path of sceneic beauty with boulders strewn on either side.We sat at the back with our backs to the driver, so that we could enjoy the ride. The shuttles are driven - mostly by women. 

Path to the Vittala temple-taken from the shuttle

Path to the Vittala temple-taken from the shuttle

View on the side of the path

Shop constructions - on the side of path
All along the path, we found some constructions, which were probably shops, in those days. We were dropped at the entrance of the Vittala temple, where we purchased a entrance ticket. We also learnt that the same entrance ticket could be used for gaining entrance to the elephant stables and the lotus temple - which were in the same compound.

The entrance view of Vittala temple

Vittala Temple is the most extravagant architectural showpiece of Hampi. The temple is built in the form of a sprawling campus with compound wall and gateway towers. There are many halls, pavilions and temples located inside this campus.

View from the entrance

View from the entrance
There is a kitchen, where the food for theceity(prasad) is prepared, there is a Tulasi mattam( Platform for Holy basil - which is worshipped in India). The highlight of Vittala temple is the stone chariot, which is almost used as iconic representation of Hampi.

The stone chariot
The Tulasi Mattam

The stone chariot

As mentioned earlier, the campus also houses huge pillared walls. The pillars are made of stone and are unique, as it seems when tapped correctly, produce music - the sapthaswara. However, now they are not open to public, since restoration work is being carried out and is it is a protected national monument.

Musical Pillars

Musical Pillars

 It seems in the pillared hall opposite to the stone chariot one of the queens of King Krishnadevaraya, used to do a dance performance, solely for the eyes of the king. The King, who is a patron of fine arts, was her only audience. This was ensured by securing the hall with curtains, held in place, by securing them in the specially made stone rings in the roof as well as the platform of the pillared hall. Privacy was created in the same manner for important official meetings too, It seems during monsoon, when it is raining, the water flowing through the design created an illusionary cascade.

Holes made in the platform as part of design to secure curtains

Holes in the platform as part of design

Ring in the roof corner to secure curtains

Ring - close up
Though many sculptures were ornamental, like the yalis at each entrance of the hall, sometimes with a rider on them, there were many sculptures that told us a piece of history. Our guide explained that, Yaali is a mythological creature, which was usually built at the entrance of temples. It has the body of a cat, head of a lion, ears of a rabbit, tail of a serpent and tusks of an elephant, making it all the more powerful.

Yali

Yali

Since, it is known that, King Krishnadevaraya was a connoisseur of fine arts, we found many dancing poses, accompanied by musicians playing various musical instruments. There were scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata, Krishna leela, and from various other Indian epics.

Gopala with cattle enchanted with music from flute

Lord Narasimha killing Hiranyakashyap with His finger nails

Hanuman presenting the choodamani of Sita to Sriram, Laxman at side

Krishna playing flute

Krishna holding the Govardanagiri

Krishna with his consorts

Krishna stealing the clothes of Gopis

Not sure who this sculpture represents - May be Mandara from Ramayan, who is said to be a hunchback
We noticed stone carving to show  trade of  horses with Arabs, taming of elephants, elephant trade.

Horses purchased from Arabs - note the distinct Arab features

Horses being purchased

Taming and training of Horses

Taming and training of Horses

Unique sculpture - Bull from one side and elephant from the other

Train of elephants
We were also pointed to a more than 500 year old tree, by our guide with in the campus.

The old tree trunk


The ''Old'' tree
The remains of the township called Vittalapura can be noticed around this temple complex.

Market place outside the temple

part of the a temple in ruins


The remains of the township



Chinese??
From the Vittala temple we walked along the Tungabhadra river passing many monuments.One of them was the Kings balance. It seems, during auspicious occasions, the king used to weigh himself in this balance - placing himself on one side and on the other - gold, grains,or other valuables which he used to donate.
Kings Balance
The weather was, thankfully, pleasant-not sunny, slightly cloudy,with cool breeze. The tour on foot from the Vittala temple to Virupaksha temple..well.. in part two.